An acquaintance I meet on my regular morning walks first mentioned that he had seen a fish eagle during a boat ride in Kundapura. This conversation stuck in my mind and when I finally visited Udupi on one of my recent trips, I decided to explore the Panchagangavali river myself.
It is best to call the boatman in advance and ask about his availability. Usually these trips are in the morning (around 7:00 am), so plan your visit accordingly. I spoke to the boatman, Narayana Karvi, who gave me the location coordinates. As I drove through a narrow village street, the sight of the sunrise over the river set the right tone for the trip.
Bathed in orange and gold tones, the rising sun seemed almost heavenly on this cool summer morning. The line of colorful boats in shades of green, blue and rust added a beautiful touch to the landscape. The boat we boarded had a couple of chairs and soon we were on our way.
The location of this river is also wonderful as you can see several mangroves that act as a fence. There were a few more boats with fishermen laying their nets and waiting for the catch on the river.
Boat ride on the Panchagangavali River, Karnataka
There are several sticks placed vertically along the river that are great places for birds to perch. We saw Brahminy Kites and Cormorants sitting on them. A few Green Bee-eaters were busy at work on a dead tree. “We have also placed a few of these sticks as they are used as perches by larger birds of prey,” explains Narayana. And sure enough, he leads us to one such area where we see the magnificent White-bellied Sea Eagle sitting on a stick, almost as if posing, which gives us a great photo opportunity. The boatmen were so attentive to the birds that they could accurately predict when the bird would fly!
What makes this birdwatching session so entertaining is that the boatmen enthusiastically point out the birds and explain their peculiarities in their own quirky way. The Caspian Terns, for example, are called the red-lipped bird thanks to their shiny orange beak! Narayana tells me that the river is full of surprises and offers something different in every season. He confirms that they also regularly see smooth-coated otters here (which I unfortunately did not see on my trip). The shallow waters of the river have formed small islands and rivulets covered with mineral-rich stones that provide food for various birds, especially waterfowl.
Birdwatching Highlights
During the boat ride, we saw several species including open-billed storks, striated herons, curlews, black-headed ibises, whimbrels, kingfishers, little egrets, grey plovers, gulls, turnstones, crested terns and Caspian terns. Surprisingly, Narayana and his brother Dasakari could recite all the bird names correctly. “We have learnt many names from people like you who come here to see these birds,” he says modestly.
After an hour’s journey, the water becomes very shallow and Dasakari jumps out of the boat to manually maneuver it into the water. Soon we stop at one of the large stretches of land in the middle of the river. “Pull up your pants or they will get muddy,” Narayana instructs. Soon we are on a huge stretch of land where even the sand has a beautiful pattern thanks to the tides flowing in from the backwaters. Looking around, one cannot miss the large colony of seagulls and terns who are oblivious to our presence here.
The best part for me was watching a common tern bathing, frolicking in the water, shaking off the excess water and just having a great time. Interestingly, there are many more species in winters thanks to the migratory birds that come here to breed. It is easy to see why this place is so great for bird watching with its serene surroundings and relatively uncommercial space for the birds to thrive. And that is why a trip to the Panchagangavali river is unique – it teaches you a lesson in slow living and how it is possible to coexist peacefully with nature. And more importantly, the simple life of the boatmen whose knowledge you can only praise – they know more about nature than any trained naturalist. If you are like me and enjoy nature, bookmark this unique experience for a once in a lifetime getaway that is a wonderful step forward for you to become a more conscious traveller.
Plan a trip to Panchagangavali River
Where to stay
The Panchagangavali River is about 40 kilometers from Udupi. You can stay in Udupi, where there are hotels to suit all budgets, or in Kundapura, where there are several accommodation options.
How to reach us
Kundapura is well connected to the rest of the country by a national highway and the nearest airport is in Mangaluru, 94 kilometres away. Call boatman Narayana Karvi on +91 97394 29931. The trip usually costs from INR 2,500 for three people – prices depend on the type of boat, number of people and duration. Location is here.
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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
— Which river is the tributary of the Souparnika River?
Souparnika River or Sowparnika Nadi flows through Byndoor Taluk in Karnataka. It joins Varahi River, Kedaka River, Chakra River and Kubja River known as Panchagangavali River and empties into the Arabian Sea.
— Which river flows in Udupi?
Sita or Seetha flows through Udipi Taluk. The famous town of Barkur is situated on the banks of river Sita, which joins river Suvarna before emptying into the Arabian Sea.
Note:
The information in this article is correct as of the date of publication.
Written by
Bindu Gopal Rao
